ILRe-port June 2005 Welcome

2005 ILR Annual Meeting

The 2005 ILR Annual Meeting will be held at the Llama Association of North America (LANA) annual conference in Plymouth, California on Friday, June 24. We'd love to have you join us. If you would like to attend, contact the ILR office for specifics at 406-755-3438 or ilr@lamaregistry.com.

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Events Calendar
Check it out on the ILR web site www.lamaregistry.com/events.php, and add your event! It is only as good as the input you provide. If you prefer to submit your event over the phone, please call or fax our office. We will be glad to put it up for you. Call 406-755-3438 Mon. - Fri. 8am to 4pm MST. Or fax your event information to 406-755-3439.

Dr. Baum received the highest number of votes in our most recent election so she will continue for a five-year term on the ILR Board of Directors. Karen has been around for awhile so some of you might not recollect her background. Following is a bio to help you better know who your board member is.

Dr. Baum, a native of Wisconsin, graduated from Iowa State University, College of Veterinary Medicine. After completing an ambulatory internship at the Ohio State University, she moved to Cornell University to perform a Large Animal Medicine residency. Karen worked at a racetrack practice in Illinois before accepting a faculty position at the College of Veterinary Medicine, Virginia Tech, where she founded the Large Animal Neonatal Intensive Care Unit and established the Lama Advisory Committee. She was president of the CVM Faculty Association.

Dr. Baum was the national Vice President of Omega Tau Sigma (veterinary professional fraternity), and has served as an advisor to numerous student chapters. She is also a member of AASRP, AABP, AAEP, AVMA, and WisconsinVMA.

Dr. Baum managed a llama herd after leaving the University. She is now President and owner of Little Doc's Veterinary Care, a private large animal practice emphasizing llamas and alpacas. Many patients are hospitalized which required special care and attention. Her special interests are newborns, problem breeders, intensive care, heat stress, nutrition, neurologic problems and physical therapy. She raises llamas, alpacas, sheep, goats, and cattle. Other animals on the farm include dogs, cats, potbellied pigs, ducks, turkeys, chickens, horses, mini horses and donkeys.

She has given over 100 seminars and invited lectures nationally and internationally, produced over 70 articles, handouts and autotutorial sets, as well as helping plan and coordinate numerous conferences. Besides being a member of various llama and alpaca associations, Dr. Baum has served on numerous boards and held varied offices.

Dr. Baum is past President and past Vice President of the Lama Association of Mid-Atlantic States (L.A.M.A.S.) and is enthusiastic about the llama and alpaca industries. Karen is on the Alpaca Research Foundation board of directors, having filled the roles of President and Vice President as well as Secretary, enjoying involvement in ongoing research and the alpaca industry. She is the past Vice President and Treasurer, currently President, of the International Lama Registry (ILR).

Karen enjoys the involvement at all levels: owner, manager, officer and veterinarian. The Little Doc's llamas and alpaca work with special needs children and nursing homes as well as participate in shows, offering many youth a chance to participate with a borrowed animal. Karen received the prestigious PUSH ME PULL YOU award fromthe International Lama Association in 1992 for contributions to the betterment of the health and well being of llamas.

Mark will join the current ILR Board of Directors for a one-year term as he fills out the year left on Art Kennels term. Following is a lengthier bio than was printed in the election package to give you the opportunity to get to know Mark a little better.

Mark is a life long grain and livestock farmer from West Central Indiana. Mark says he has never gotten very far in life because he still lives in the same house he grew up in. Currently the farm consist of 1,300 acres of corn & soybeans and 50 llamas that were added 11 years ago. Until just a few years ago the farm also produced 4,000 swine a year and had a flock of purebred Southdown ewes.

Mark and his wife Susan are the parents of two children Kyle, an engineer for General Motors in Detroit , and Kelly a College Senior. Mark & Susan met showing sheep at the Indiana State Fair. Purebred livestock have been a big part of the Smiths lives showing and competing across the U.S. for over 30 years. As a family they have been very involved in 4-H, church and community organizations.

Mark started his Southdown sheep flock as a young teenager and became intrigued with pedigrees. He produced his first National Champion in 1978; many more National Champions were produced over the next 25 years. The flock was sold in 2003 so that more time could be devoted to the growing number of llamas on the farm.

Mark has been involved in many agriculture organizations. He served on the Board of the American Southdown Breeders Registry for 18 years serving as president for two years. Mark along with his brother won the North American Shepherd Award in 1982.

Mark was a member of class 7 of the Indiana Agriculture Leadership Program and has served on Ag advisory committees for 3 U.S. Congressmen. Mark is currently a Farm Bureau county president and is President of the Hoosier Llama & Alpaca Assoc. He also is a past ALSA Board member serving as Secretary and V.P.

Mark has judged numerous local, State Fair and National sheep shows through the years. He is an ALSA llama and Alpaca judge and enjoys the challenge of placing the quality animals he sees in today’s show rings.

Mark says that he looks forward to working with the ILR Board, staff and the membership during his term. We will face challenges and opportunities in the coming years. Our focus should always be how to best serve the membership and to create value in the services we provide.

Restraint of Llamas
by Karen H. Baum, DVM, & Emile F. DeKeyser, Huddleston, VA

A good halter is essential to proper handling of llamas. If the halter can slip over the nose, the air flow will be obstructed and the llama will panic. If it is too big the llama can escape. The most versatile style crosses under the chin through the ring.

The lead line should be strong enough to withstand the force of a llama tugging when tied. Always have an extra lead on hand, as the lead rope tends to give way at the most inopportune times! They tend to break at the snap or where the clamp is. When the rope is braided back into itself or knotted, the problem of the clamp is eliminated. Wearing tight-fitting, leather gloves can give you a better grip and save rope burn. This is especially important with fractious animals or when performing an act which the llama does not appreciate.

Catching a llama requires patience and practice. Have the halter in your left hand, lead attached, with the lead going to your right hand approaching from the left side. Extend your lead on the animal and wrap your arm around the neck. Bring the halter from under the head and slide on without touching the nose. Catching the animal should be done in a small pen (12’x12’ is ideal). A long rope can be utilized to corner a llama in a field to be haltered.

When the animal is fractious, or a painful procedure is to be performed, an ear can be squeezed and gently twisted. Run your hand from the withers up the neck towards the head to grasp the ear. Sudden movements disturb even the gentlest llama.

Chemical restraint uses drugs off label as nothing is approved for llamas. There are many regimes which have been tried but I like a mixture of xylazine (Rompun) and butorphanol (Torbugesic) given in the muscle. The mixture of xylazine and butorphanol gives a much more predictable, and probably safer, sedation than xylazine alone. The “induction” and recovery are smooth. Often the animal will lay down at the higher dosages and will act oblivious to manipulation. The route of administration is convenient especially in a fractious animal.

A well-designed llama chute is not only important but vital. Even if you, the owner, have only one or two llamas, a chute is essential to proper restraint for diagnostic, therapeutic and routine procedures. It is safer for, and easier on, the llama and the handlers. There are commercially available chutes but many people enjoy building their own custom llama chute. The following plans can be adhered to or modified to suit your needs. It is the result of building several chutes and working in numerous others. Each chute we build is slightly different to suit the situation and improve on the previous design. Wheels can be added to make it mobile if your work area surface is hard enough.

Basically, there are two uprights through which the head passes, the neck is between the shoulders are against. One or two lead ropes secured around rope cleats or flag anchors 3 feet ahead of the uprights prevent the llama from backing out. The total length of the chute is 8 feet and the width is 36-42 inches inside to allow a handler space to work on the llamas.

Be sure your lumber is treated! The urine and manure will quickly rot marine plywood. Many chutes remain outside or end up outside when indoor space is limited. Inclement weather, soiling, cleaning and disinfecting all lead to deterioration of the wood unless treated and sealed. Use of an agent such as Thompson’s Water Seal brand waterproofing formula will greatly lengthen the lifespan of your chute.

GENERAL: Finished 2x4s are actually 1 ½“ x 3 ½”3. Total length is 8 feet (96”); width is 36”-42” on the inside (add 7” for outside width); height is 6’-7’ (72”-84”) depending on your preference and where the chute is located. If you build the chute inside, be sure it will fit through a door to move in out. Leave extra inches to get under it to move it. Bolting the pieces together makes a stronger chute than nailing it.

SIDE VIEW: Put the plywood sides on the outside of the 2x4 frame. This will allow more hip room for the handler, with less squish factor! The 2x4s are turned so the narrow face is seen from the side of the chute. The strength needs to be directed at the animal inside the chute. The top 2x4 is tuned 90 degrees, so the wide face is observed from the side. The top 2x4s offer stability to the chute and should never come in contact with a llama (unless your llama does gymnastics in the chute, this activity is better suited to open fields!)

The two back panels (C&D) can be removable or hinged. When applying hardware allow for shifting and shrinkage of the lumber. Use 1/2” to 3/4" plywood for the side panels. The two front panels (A&B) are optional as llamas do not stand here. The 2x4s brace the front post and can act as handy shelves. There should be 2 feet between the horizontal 2x4s; the one on top of the side panels should be 4 feet high.

The section where the llama stands should be 5 feet. The front section, where the llama’s head and neck are, should be 3 feet. The rope cleats or flag anchors should be 3 and 5 feet above the ground on each side of the front of the chute. These are used to secure the llama. Make sure they are big enough to figure 8 your lead around them. Do not tie your lead. Make sure you can loosen your lead when the animal has all of his/her weight on the lead.

BASE: Decide on the width which will fit into your space, go through doors or load on a truck to move it, and which maximize on materials (keep the outside width less than or equal to 48 inches). Consider animal size plus space for the handler. We have found 27 inches is too narrow and 48 inches it too wide for inside width to comfortably work on the llamas without getting squashed or slammed around too much. Too narrow is too tight. Two wide allows for momentum on the sideways body slams.

Put floor joists (2x4s) at approximately 12-inch intervals. 2x6s can also be used for floor joist. They need to be double and approximately 1 ½” to 2” apart where the upright posts are secured (3 feet from the front and at the ends). Bolt the posts in place as well as the eyebolts in the bottom of the restraining posts. Use two 6” carriage bolts (plus two washers and u nut per bolt) on each permanent upright (total of 12 bolts). Use one 6” carriage bolt through each eyebolt in the bottom of the restraining posts which swivel. Each of these bolts need three washers and two nuts.

Use 3/4" treated plywood on the floor. This can be covered with a rubber mat or indoor-outdoor carpeting. Be sure to apply a water sealant before attaching the carpet or mat. A scale can be built in or placed on top of the floor of the chute. Make sure the surface of the scale is not too slippery. Try to eliminate spaces where the llama’s feet can get caught between the scale and the chute. Don’t forget to cut holes in the floor for the eyebolts to go through (on the bottom of the restraint posts which swivel).

FRONT VIEW: Place rope cleats or flag anchors 3 feet and 5 feet above the floor on the front of the chute. Make sure they are large enough to accommodate figure 8’s with your lead rope. One or both restraint posts (three feet from the front) should swivel. The bracket pictured is easier to use than pegs. If pegs are used, big (1” diameter) pegs work better than smaller pegs. The bracket can be either side or both, whatever tickles your fancy.

Shave the edges of the 2x4s to fit inside the 4” PVC pipe. The PVC pipe should be slightly shorter than the space from the floor to the bottom of the cross braces on top, so the post can swivel to the side without catching. The eyebolts should set 3”-4” into the bottom of the restraint posts which swivel. Have a good 6” center-to-center between the eyebolts. See the diagram for more details.

TOP VIEW: All 2x4s will be turned such that the narrow side is viewed from the top. The top of the restraint posts which will swivel between two cross braces. The end cross braces can be double to secure the upright posts. They can be as seen on the diagram or separated so the upright posts come between then (as with the posts 3’ from the front). The side and/or end top braces can be located on the outside of the upright posts. Alternately they stay in line with the outside edge of the upright post. This can be individualized to your taste.

SUMMARY: These plans should give you a place to start. Most any restraint chute is better than none. No matter how elaborate you get, your investment will be returned in time saved handling the llamas. Your work with them will be easier and more pleasant. You will enjoy your llamas more. Your llamas will be easier to work on and less stressed. It may take a few times for them to become comfortable in the chute. Try to do pleasant procedures in the chute as often as possible. Feeding a treat in the chute makes it a more pleasurable memory for them! Relax and enjoy!

A good general reference is Caring For Llamas: A Health and Management Guide by Clare Hoffman, DVM and Ingrid Asmus, 1989. It is published by: Rocky Mountain Llama Association, 168 Emerald Mtn. Ct., Livermore, CO 80536.

Fowler, M.E., ed. Zoo and Animal Medicine. Philadelphia: WB Sauders Co, 1978.
Johnson, L.W., ed. Llama Medicine in Vet Clin N. Am., Food An 5(1): 1989.
Fowler, M.E. Medicine and Surgery of South American Camelids. Ames , Iowa: Iowa State University Press 1989.

The Bell Ringing Llama
by 'Glacier' at Glacier Mesquite Bean Llamas, near Austin, TX

March 1999. Hi. I'm Glacier, a three year old white llama with black face mask. I share my yard with a spoiled, pushy two and a half year old female named Apu. A relative newcomer, two-year-old appaloosa, Warpaint, makes up the rest of my herd and he surely knows his place in it. I want to share some training tips with you llamas that have been successful with my humans (Sharon and Claud); things that you probably haven't even thought about.

The most recent (and most innovative, if I should say so myself) was to turn around a technique that they used to entice us to them. They ring an antique bell on the upstairs deck by pulling on a long rope from the downstairs porch. At first I investigated this obnoxious noise out of curiosity, but my humans fed me a handfull of Muenster pellets or a few carrots just for checking it out. Since Apu and Warpaint followed me there, they got some goodies too. It wasn't necessary to entice me, I would have come anyway just to check out these sounds. I take herd leadership very seriously.

Anyway, after several weeks of listening for and responding to unpredictable bell ringing events, I thought it might be interesting to pull that bell rope myself. I rather liked the two-phased clang-clang, although it was a bit rusty and had to be pulled pretty hard to get past the first screech-screech. Impediments to success were the wind blowing the limp cotton rope away from my lips and my difficulty in turning my head sideways to catch the elusive thing. I practiced several times before I got the hang of it (Hummm...llamas can pun too).

I knew Claud was upstairs working. Didn't know when he would come out and feed us, but I felt like I'd like a Muenster snack or carrot about then. They are real stingy with treats. So I pulled on the rope. Up and down, up and down, up and down. Was he deaf? After what seemed an interminable time, he finally came downstairs to see why the bell rang. You should have seen the effect on my human! He was so delighted that he gave me a whole handful of Muenster - and some to Apu and that pesky Warpaint too. And what did they do to deserve it besides follow me around?

Claud was so excited about my innovation that he called Sharon at work. She made a special trip out late that afternoon hoping to see me do it, but I didn't feel like showing off just then. Let her wait. Besides, she gives me Muenster even if I don't ring the bell, so why should I?

Next day, I did it again. Claud fed me and called her again. Now I've trained him to make telephone calls whenever I want him to! And she responds by driving for 30 minutes...just on the off chance I might pull a rope. What power!

A couple of days later, I decided to give Sharon a thrill by ringing the bell while she was sweeping the porch. I didn't do it for the food, I'd already had my ration for the day. But she gave me more anyway. (Us really. I'm the idea man and everyone benefits!) Incidentally, I've also trained her to run get the camera when I pull

the rope, but I quit before she gets back. And she still feeds me!

I've developed several different techniques to hold that slippery rope. Llamas don't have upper teeth so I couldn't grip it well. Claud finally tied some knots in it so it wouldn't slip through my mouth. I did learn to increase friction though by flipping the end of the rope over my nose - it works well. I can flip it over my ear too!

A contractor came to the house and made it inside before we could properly greet him. I rang the bell to remind Claud to make an introduction, but he mistakenly thought I wanted a carrot. I refused it (to his surprise) and waited until the contractor came out, then whiffled him. He was OK. I wasn't interested in the carrot at all; didn't even eat it after he left.

August 1999. By now, "we" includes two more llamas, a yearling brat Siesta, and my nurse, Nova. We've depleted the natural forage in our/their acre yard and Claud built strong fences around the tastiest exotics, so they sometimes take us outside the fence to browse the lush grass and elm leaves. Now that they've learned to feed us on demand, I decided to expand their repertory of responses to opening the gate to let us out at our convenience. It's plenty light at 6:30 am so I ring the bell to alert them to daybreak, the coolest time to browse. The deck door opens with a "I hear you Glacier" and a promise to come downstairs "in a minute." We cluster at the gate, waiting for our halters to be put on so we can go out.

This article is intended to be an introduction for those who are thinking about getting and using electric shears but don’t know where to start. We’ll discuss the types and brands of shearing machines, the blades used, what you can expect to pay to get started and some tips on use and care of electric shears.

Shearing with electric shears or clippers is done for the same purposes as hand shears or scissors: for the comfort of the llama, to enhance their looks and to harvest that wonderful fiber. But with electric you can often shear faster and closer to the skin with smoother results and much less fatigue for your hands and arms.

There is a wide variety of brands, types and styles of electric shears available. With llamas being the new kid on the block we use shears that were originally designed for sheep, goats and horses

The venerable Oster brand shears (older versions are branded Oster-Sunbeam) include the ClipMaster, ShowMaster and ShearMaster and the smaller GroomMaster models. Other than the GroomMaster these are large, metal bodied machines used for many years by professional and serious amateur sheep and goat shearers. Many of the models are available with variable speed motors to match the cutting action to the needs of the shearing job. Most of these types use the standard three inch, three and four point cutter shear heads. The Oster models cost in the $200 to $300 range. Sheep type shears are also made by Heiniger, Andis and Premier in the same price range.

A similar machine to the Lister is available from Premier and is called the model 1000c. It uses the same blades and motor as the Lister but with an improved, metal head instead of plastic, and numerous other improvements to the Lister design. A 1000c kit costs about $225. Premier also has available a clipper head for their 3000 and 4000 model sheep type shearing machines that allows the use of the Lister blades. Premier is also making blades that are a direct replacement for the Lister blades, but the most popular type, the Wizard is not available from Premier. Andis has their model LG-C-68015 which appears to be similar to the Lister , but uses its own type of blades.

Cordless tools are are all the rage among the handyman set and there are cordless electric clippers available as well. The Showman is a cordless version in the Lister line of shears that runs on any 12 volt battery. A complete kit will run from about $360 to $445. Andis also makes a battery version of the 68015 clipper called the model RC 68005. This clipper runs around $300. Generally these cordless types would be best used for small jobs and touch up at home and shows due to limited battery life.

Electric shearing blades consist of two parts. A comb or lower blade is fixed to the cutter head of the machine and does not move. This fixed blade is against the llama’s body as you cut. The cutter or upper blade sits on top of the comb and moves side to side, cutting the fiber as it passes through the comb. All shears have a tensioning device, usually a knob or a nut, to adjust the pressure between the upper and lower blades.

In most cases the blades designed for shearing sheep will work for shearing llamas. Finer blades are available for all the shearing machines mentioned that were designed for goats and horses and they work well on llamas. In general you’ll want combs or blades with about 12 to 20 teeth. The more teeth the finer the cut. One advantage to more teeth is less chance for nicking or cutting the llama, but finer types are somewhat harder to push through the fiber than more open blades with fewer, wider space teeth. This can be important for llamas with matted or very dense fiber.

As you can probably imagine there are a myriad of combs and cutters available for the traditional sheep-type shearing machines. I even found a 13 tooth comb from Heiniger called Camelid. (Perhaps our shearing needs are being noticed!) Cutters and combs are usually sold separately and cost up to about $20 for combs and about $5 to $8 for cutters. Cutters are usually 3 or 4 point (3 or 4 cutting teeth). I also found a 9 tooth cutter available from Lister.

For the Lister Stablemate-type shears the Wizard style of blades (13 tooth comb, 20 tooth is available) seem to be the type favored for llamas, and the Course style, with an 18 tooth comb, a close second. It is not well known that Wizard blades come in two types: the LR has beveled-tip teeth that are longer and more rounded than the SS that has teeth that are sharp to the end. I’ve use both and they work equally well but watch those points on the SS! A semi-pro shearer I know prefers the Course blades as he can shear quickly and get a smooth result with little chance of nicks and cuts. Lister blades should always be used and sharpened together as a set, don’t mix up your upper and lower blades. Lister blades cost in the $35 to $50 range for the set. Lister blades should only be sharpened on a lapping machine to get the longest life and sharpest result.

There are a number of Internet web sites that have shears, blades and accessories for sale and they can be good sources for information as well. A word of caution, buy your shears from an American web site if you choose this route, shears sold to the European market run on different electrical voltage than we use here and have different plug connections.

The first machine you should use on the llama in the shearing process is your blower. Dirt and grit in the fiber lead to rapid dulling of the blades. Very thoroughly blow out the areas to be sheared until no more dust is coming out.

Assemble your shearing machine according to the manufacturers instructions. Adjust the tension on the blades according to the instructions. On the Lister, for example, the knob is tightened all the way down and backed off 1 1/2 turns. If for some reason the machine fails to clip smoothly it is likely you‘ve not correctly adjusted the tensioning. You should increase or decrease the tension - but not more than a ¼ turn or less at a time to achieve optimum cutting. In most cases failure to clip correctly is an operator problem rather than a fault with the machine. If the blades fail to cut avoid any attempt to increase the pressure on the blades (tightening the tension) as this will lead to excessive heat build up and will rapidly cause the blades to overheat and become dull. Hot blades are also uncomfortable for the llama and can even burn the skin. Have a spare set of blades available so you can finish the job at hand if the set you are using stops cutting from being blunted .

You should give your blades an initial oiling in the places indicated in the instructions. Use a quality clipper oil or good light machine oil and not common motor, WD-40 or household oil. Clipper oils have only a faint scent unlike more common oils and won’t contaminate your fleece.

Make sure your shearing area is clean and you have enough cord length to move freely around both sides of the llama. Most shears have about a 15 foot cord but add a good extension cord if needed. Have something to put the fiber into, preferably something with a big open top that you can easily drop the fiber into. This will speed up your shearing job as you will find you are shearing faster than with hand shears and will need to move the fiber quickly from llama to container.

As you shear, keep your blades clean and well oiled at all times. Follow the manufacture’s instructions for time between oiling. Oiling of blades can be carried out when the machine is running or stationary. The clipper will not cut if hair or dirt gets between the blades. Hair can get trapped between blades and hold them apart enough to interfere with the clipper performance. I find a soft brush, such as an old paint brush can be used to brush the fiber out of the blades and to clear the air intake screens on the body of the machine as you shear.

Some shearers use a blade wash to clean and cool the blades while shearing, either purchased or home made. A formula I have seen for blade wash is K-1 Kerosene mixed with an equal part of motor oil. Dip the blades into the wash and briefly turn on the clipper to wash out the hair and dirt. Shake the wash mix out thoroughly and wipe off the blades. One caution, I find that the petroleum smell stays on the fiber so we don’t use the blade wash when we are shearing for fiber we are going to keep. Some folks also use diesel fuel for their blade wash. We’ve found this contamination makes the fiber useless for any purpose.

How long each blade set will cut will vary according to what you are cutting, the cleaner the llamas are the more life you’ll get from the blades. We seem to be able to shear about four or five with show cuts per set of Lister blades. For our herd of 19 llamas and 2 alpacas we have five sets of blades on hand to get us through the shearing season.

The clipping machine should be cleaned after each use. Remove the blades and clean them, next use a soft brush to clean thoroughly both the cutter head and all of the components parts within and the body of the clipper. Reassemble the machine carefully and oil any moving parts.

When not in use, having been thoroughly cleaned and oiled, the machine should be stored in its case or a box in a dry place, preferably in your house. Do not leave in tack rooms or stables as they are often humid and dusty. The same should apply to all blades. Blades should be wiped with oil and stored in the wrapping they were shipped in or in a blade case. Blades are made of high carbon steel to maintain their sharp edge but they will rust easily if not kept oiled.

Hopefully you now have enough basic information to want to start power shearing for yourself. Good luck!

Editorial Note: This information, along with brochures on various other topics, is in a brochure format at the ILR office. Contact us for copies for your events. Check out the ILR website for a complete list of brochures available).

Llamas' intelligence, natural agility and calm disposition make them outstanding pack animals. For over 4000 years llamas have been used to transport goods across the rugged Andean mountains in South America . Today they are found all across the United States and Canada , carrying loads for North American backcountry travelers. Here llamas serve as the pack animal of choice in situations that call for minimal environmental impact, ease of handling, agility and surefootedness.

Former backpackers, outdoor photographers, and public agency field crews use llamas to take the load off their own backs. High country fishermen enjoy casting across alpine lakes in float tubes packed in by their llamas. Hunters successfully employ llamas to pack game out of rugged areas that would be inaccessible to horses or mules. Families with small children have trained their llamas to accept a lightweight rider, enabling their youngsters to take longer backcountry journeys. Commercial llama packers have led scores of adventurous travellers on truly unique outdoor vacations with the support of their woolly packing companions.

Llamas for Packing
Any llama in good physical condition may be used for packing. Many owners choose to have their pack llamas gelded (neutered) unless they will be using them for breeding. Geldings tend generally to get along better in a herd with fewer dominance disputes and are easier to tend in a mixed pack string of males and females. To avoid injury during normal pasture roughhousing behavior, all adult males should have their fighting teeth trimmed.

More and more often non-breeding female llamas are being trained to pack. If they are eventually used for breeding, packing duties should be restricted during the three or four months prior to birthing and for a similar period after. As social, herd-oriented animals, llamas prefer living with other llamas or with other herd animals such as sheep or goats.

Once a llama has learned to stand to be caught and be easily haltered, and will follow readily on a loose lead, he may begin pack training. During these lessons he should learn to accept a saddle on his back and cinches around his belly before being loaded with lightweight, bulky packs. Additional training should include learning to walk into a trailer and allowing his feet to be picked up for examination and trimming. Most llamas quickly learn packing tasks when they are taught in a calm, consistent, and patient manner.

The distance a pack llama can travel is affected by its condition and natural athletic ability as well as its load and the terrain it will cover. A seasoned pack llama that is moderately loaded and in excellent physical condition should be able to cover 10-15 miles on well graded trails. Steep trails or especially heavy packs will shorten this distance. Young llamas and those in the early stages of training will be comfortable with much shorter distances. They will also benefit from an easy hiking pace and regular rest stops along the way.

When they are between two and three years old, llamas may begin carrying lightweight loads. At this young age they are still physically maturing and should not be asked to pack more than 40 pounds including their pack saddle. While youngsters should be limited to lightweight loads, mature llamas three and a half to four years old and in good physical condition may carry from one quarter to one third of their optimum body weight. Any llama that is overweight and out of condition will be limited in his ability to carry a loaded pack. At times this may cause them to lie down in the trail and pause for a brief rest. Proper conditioning is essential when owners wish to pack their llamas with full loads and cover long distances. A healthy, well cared for llama should be able to continue to pack for at least ten years.

Llama Packing Equipment
A variety of pack systems have been developed especially for llamas. These usually consist of a saddle and two pack bags, often called panniers. Most systems have a method of attaching lightweight, bulky items on top. They may also feature a breast collar and rump strap (a breeching or crupper) to fasten the load more securely on the animal.

Llama pack saddles come in two basic forms: frame pack saddles and frameless “soft” pack saddles. Llama packers may choose from several different types of frame packs made from lightweight aluminum, fiberglass or wood. A frame saddle is used with a saddle blanket to protect the llama's back. It may carry a pair of panniers or it may be used to carry loads tied on with more traditional rope hitches. Soft pack saddles are usually made from leather or another stiff material, such a cordura nylon. They usually have an internal method of padding the llama’s back along either side of its spine for the animal’s comfort and protection. These saddles are used with specially designed attaching panniers.

Any type of pack saddle should be checked to assure that it fits properly on the llama's back. With any type of saddle there should be adequate spinal clearance and care should be taken not to place heavy items directly over the llama's spine. No part of the saddle should dig into the animal's back or cause rubbing or soreness.

In addition to the rest of their camping equipment, llama packers should take along a swivel picket stake and 10-20 foot line for staking out their llamas in camp, a hand scales for weighing and balancing loads, a curry brush to remove debris before saddling, an extra halter, and a ration of supplemental feed. In addition, it's important to take along a first aid kit that includes medications and equipment for treating minor llama injuries and ailments.

The amount of supplemental feed to bring will vary depending on how much vegetation will be available during the trip. On an average trip with good grazing opportunities supplemental feed may be limited to a pound or two of grain or hay pellets for treat or catch feed. On trips that include extended travel above treeline or where edible vegetation will be limited, about one pound per llama per day of a mixture of half corn, rolled oats, and rolled barley (COB) and half processed hay pellets is recommended. It's best if the feed is weed free certified in order to prevent introduction of non-native seeds into backcountry environments, and is required by some national parks and forests.

Transporting Llamas to the Trailhead
Pickups with stock racks, lightweight trailers and full-size vans will easily transport one or two pack llamas and their gear to the trailhead. Larger stock trailers may be used to transport three or more llamas.

An enclosed trailer or vehicle will protect llamas from the elements, allowing them to ride comfortably and safely. When hauling llamas in a covered trailer or stock rack you do not need to tie them. If using a stock rack or trailer with no roof, it's best to tie the llamas up on a short lead so that they will not jump out if they become excited.

When travelling long distances with llamas its a good idea to stop along the way, allowing them a little exercise and a chance to relieve themselves. After a long haul, llamas should be given an overnight rest before carrying a loaded pack up the trail.

Pre-trip Preparations
The key to successful llama packing is working with a healthy, well-conditioned and well-trained animal. Llamas, like people, benefit greatly by being in good shape before they're put to work carrying full loads. A pre-packing conditioning program should include regular walks with light packs, gradually working up to longer distances and heavier loads. Vaccinating for tetanus and other livestock concerns, worming for internal parasites and keeping toes properly trimmed will also help llamas maintain good health at home and on the trail. It's a good idea to do vaccinating, worming, and toe trimming well in advance of a pack trip to allow the llama time for any needed recovery. Consult ILR's brochure "Llama Medical Management" for more details on llamas' medical concerns.

It's a good idea to shear your pack llama every spring, especially in warmer climate areas. A shorn llama will stay cooler on the trail, his coat will be easier to keep debris-free, and saddling will be simpler without excess wool tangling in cinch straps. Shearing the llama's coat to 1-2 inches in length should be done at least over the saddle and cinch areas of the llama's back and belly using sharp scissors, hand shears or electric clippers.

Pack llamas should have experience being saddled and carrying light loads before their first trip into the backcountry. It's also important for them to know how to safely negotiate a picket line and simple obstacles like streams and fallen logs.

Some types of plants, such as those in the azalea and delphinium families, are poisonous to llamas and other livestock. Llama packers should be aware of and able to identify the potentially poisonous plants in the areas they visit. Their llamas should not be picketed near or allowed to browse on these plants during the trip. In addition, a llama first aid kit may include items that can be used to treat illness caused by plant poisoning.

When planning a trip on public lands, such as national parks or forests, llama packers should check with the agency in charge of administering the area. These officials can provide information on permits, trail conditions and any regulations that may apply to pack stock use.

On the Trail
Packing with llamas is a very special experience. Besides taking the load off your back they are unique trail companions. They often spot wildlife and other backcountry travelers well before you do. They often give vocal comments on trail conditions or their opinions about when it's time to take a break. The way they negotiate obstacles with aplomb is a never ending marvel.

More than one llama may be tied together to form a llama packstring. Llamas follow one another quite naturally, and quickly learn to "line out" as they proceed up the trail. The most common method of hitching a string of llamas together is to fasten the leadrope of the trailing llama to the saddle of the llama in front of him. Safety dictates that the attachment should be with a quick release knot or that a "weak link" of lighter cord or rubber should be used to allow the connection to break away if trouble arises. Leading a string of llamas requires that you pay extra attention. You should look back frequently to check on them and take care when negotiating obstacles.

While they may drink from streams along the trail, llamas may also completely abstain from drinking during the hike to camp. In either case they should be offered water in the evening after their ration of supplemental feed and again in the morning before hiking.

When possible llamas should be picketed within sight of camp, away from small trees and any potentially poisonous plants. Because llamas often choose the dampest areas in which to make their dung piles they should not be picketed too close to streams or lakes. As a safety measure, many packers attach the picket line to the stake with a piece of rubber or bungie cord. This acts as a shock absorber in case the llama spooks and runs abruptly to the end of its rope. On layover days, the llamas' picket sites should be moved morning and night to minimize grazing impact.

Llamas' padded feet, unobtrusive dung, and light browsing habits have a lower impact on the land than horses, mules and donkeys. In keeping with this principle, llama packers should make a special effort to practice "no trace" camping and leave as little evidence of their visit as possible. Llama groups should set up camp and stake out llamas away from other backcountry users to minimize social impacts. All garbage that is not burned should be packed out. Stoves should be used for cooking instead of wood fires. Human waste should be buried deeply, well away from water sources. All washing should be done away from streams and lakes. And before leaving camp, llamas' dung piles should be dispersed.

Special considerations should be made when llama packers meet horses and mules on the trail. These animals may become nervous or excited at their first sight of a llama piled high with a fully loaded pack. Safety dictates that llamas, as more maneuverable animals, give right of way to riders and their pack stock by stepping off the trail several yards to allow them to pass easily. Sometimes, this means going back down the trail a ways to a wider area. And when possible, getting off below the trail is preferable to above. It's helpful for llama packers to give a bit of warning to riders they see approaching, letting them know that they're traveling with llamas and that they'll get off the trail at the first opportunity. A friendly greeting goes a long way toward promoting good will, reassuring the horses and mules, and seeing that all parties have a safe and pleasant encounter.

Today, llamas are the newest pack animal to enter the North American backcountry. Many people have never seen a llama on the trail, and when llama packers meet hikers and riders they are presented with an opportunity to introduce others to the pleasures of traveling with llamas. A bit of time spent answering questions about how much they can pack and where they come from can increase good will and acceptance of these special creatures.

A final word of caution: packing with llamas can be habit forming; you may never want to carry a backpack again! For, when handled with respect and understanding, these unique animals will continually demonstrate their natural abilities as hard working trail companions.

Additional sources of information on llama packing:

-The Backcountry Llama Newsletter llamapacker@kalama.com
-Field Guide to Plants Poisonous to Livestock, author: Shirley Weathers; Rosebud Press - wrw@ubtanet.com
-The Pack Llama Trial Association - PO Box 25, Meridian, ID 83680

Llamas could point the way to new ways of tackling human diseases, according to a Canadian-Belgian team.

The animals produce antibodies which the company and researchers behind the work say could be used to treat conditions such as Alzheimer's disease. They say these "nanobodies" are smaller and more stable than human antibodies and may provide cheaper and more effective treatments. However, UK experts warned that the research was at a very early stage.

A number of research teams around the world are investigating the potential benefits of antibody therapy.

This research is being carried out by the National Research Council of Canada and the Belgian company Ablynx.

Antibodies are complex protein molecules which attack foreign substances (antigens) in the body.

The researchers say animals in the camelid family, such as llamas, produce a much simpler type of antibody than humans. Because the animals' antibodies are much more simply constructed, they say, it is easier to take a small fragment which can then be used as a therapeutic treatment. The researchers say that the nanobodies' size - over 10 times smaller than a full-size human antibody - means they are better able to penetrate tissues.

In addition, they say they are more stable than human complex antibodies because they have developed in animals which are exposed to extremely harsh conditions.

Llamas are given antigens to trigger antibody production. The researchers can then identify which nanobodies bind to certain antigens. These nanobodies are then cultivated in larger numbers in bacteria in the laboratory.

The Canadian team have used imaging techniques in the laboratory to show that a specific nanobody can cross the barrier between the blood system and the brain. This exists to prevent toxic substances getting into the brain, but can mean it is difficult to deliver medication.

Dr Danica Stanimirovic, who led the research, said the next step would be to find a way to "piggyback" drugs into the brain.

Ablynx is investigating other nanobodies which could be used in the treatment of neurological disease. The have carried out laboratory experiments which showed one nanobody binds to the protein which causes deposits, or plaques, to form in the brains of Alzheimer's patients.

Simon Kerry, director of business development for the company, said animal experiments to begin to assess the potential therapeutic benefits were the next step. "We hope we will show that it is possible to disrupt plaque development, or formation."

Clive Ballard, of the UK 's Alzheimer's Society, said: "There has been a lot of interest in antibody approaches, and this new development might be something that will provide further opportunities to look at novel antibody therapies." But he added: "The researchers don't look at the potential immune response. That would be the concern."

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